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GAYA
Rites of PassageA community dependent on the dead for its living is itself
in danger of dying out.
By Bharat Desai
The weak rays of the sun have barely
touched the rippling waters of the Phalgu river when Bacchulal Vitthal begins his chant to
the gods. A group of barefoot, dhoti-clad men with tonsured heads listen in solemn
silence. A senior panda (priest), Vitthal, like others of his kind, is caught in a time
warp in which life follows a centuries-old pattern centred on the Vishnupad temple and the
Phalgu. On the river's banks, Vitthal discharges the special responsibility of the Gayawal
Brahmins, his community: conduct the last rites of the dead and pray for their salvation.
Such has life been for the Gayawal Brahmin for ages. And such
would it continue to be but for community members like Bishnulal Barik. Some would dismiss
Barik as a rebel, others would call him a progressive. Two decades ago, he flouted
convention to earn a living by teaching Hindi to Japanese tourists. It is but fitting that
his 21-year-old daughter Archana should also follow the path less trodden. Having enrolled
for a computer course after her graduation, she dreams of becoming a computer
professional.
But not everyone is happy about these developments. A
disconcerting question has arisen. Would a highly educated girl like Archana find a
suitable match within her inward-looking community? "Marriage is the last thing on my
mind," says Archana, but Gayawal Brahmins are haunted by fears that she may be forced
to marry outside the clan. What if other girls choose to follow her example? Says Vitthal:
"Never in the history of the Gayawals has any boy or girl married outside the
community." The ostensible reason for this, most Gayawals maintain, is retaining the
purity of blood. Though the community has shrunk from 1,484 families to less than 100, the
pandas have banned any marriages outside the clan.
All these years it made sense to ensure the genetic
exclusivity of the clan. Sadanand Guruda, a panda, is candid enough to acknowledge this.
The monopoly over performing the last rites, a lucrative business which the Gayawals
wanted to maintain, was a compelling reason, he says. Another panda, Gopal Lal Sijwa,
tries to rationalise: "Look at Allahabad where the Prayagwal Brahmins lost to the
Saryupari Brahmins or at Benaras where the Narkul Brahmins were eliminated by the Gaur
Brahmins." The Brahmins at these places, he says, lost their traditional hold because
they allowed inter-community marriages.
The Gayawals, however, have been uncompromising, with the
result that there often is a shortage of brides and grooms among Gayawals. Only half a
dozen marriages are held in the community every year. Says a Gayawal, Bacchulal Choudhary:
"It does not matter even if the girl is up to five years older than the boy. There
are hardly any options." The only silver lining is that as all the families are
linked in some way or the other, there is no dowry system.
Shivlal Vitthal, also a panda, feels that though marriages
within the clan may have helped them maintain their hold over the religious rites at Gaya,
they have had to pay a heavy price for it. "Our numbers are going down. Our children
are physically weaker than others and not as mentally sharp," he says. Gynaecologist
Usha Laxmi feels that a majority of the health problems that the community faces is
because of "a limited gene pool".
Times are tough for the Gayawals. Dakshina (donations) from
the pilgrims have decreased substantially. "Today, few people are driven by religious
sentiments or love for their ancestors. They come to Gaya more because of social
pressure," says Guruda. Some of the younger pandas have taken up other jobs. Says
Ajay Lal Guput, who has a cold drinks stall in the Vishnupad temple complex: "There
is no respect in being a panda. Everyday, one has to beg from pilgrims. Selling soft
drinks is more respectable." Guput's voice may soon find an echo in many others from
his clan. With time, a community whose existence revolves around performing the last rites
of the dead, may find itself in danger of dying out. |