In
The Line of Fire
Terror-stricken civilians and tense soldiers met
Associate Editor Harinder Baweja in shell-shocked Drass and
Kargil
Ready!" The guns take position. "Fire," screams a
soldier into a hailer and thunderclaps pierce the silence that had descended upon the
picturesque vale. We are approaching Drass, 60 km west of Kargil. The army now calls it
the "artillery range of the enemy". The area that had remained peaceful since
1947 is now being pounded by thousands of shells every day. The infiltrators who reached
the heights above Drass have gained access to the highway and every now and then gunfire
echoes through one of the coldest battlefields in the world.
But it is far from cold at the moment. "Stop! Don't go
ahead, you're in the shelling range," rasps a soldier. Within seconds, the light
field guns are fired as we cover our ears, the ground shaking beneath our feet.
We are travelling against the tide of refugees fleeing from
Drass. The few who had chosen to stay back ran for their lives when the air strikes began.
"Even the hospital has been shelled," says Abbas Ali, a resident of Drass who is
leaving with his wife and two children. He clutches a basket, the only possession he is
taking with him. What is it? Clothes? Jewellery? As it turns out, there are two hens in
the basket -- food for the family when it comes to the crunch.
There is little in terms of facilities for the refugees.
While the residents of Drass have gone towards Sonmarg in the Kashmir valley, people from
Kargil have fanned into the villages. The lucky ones have taken shelter with relatives.
Others have just pitched tents on the roadside. "We are scared and take shelter
behind rocks when the shelling starts," says Saira Banu holding her daughter tightly.
The army's main concern is the control of the highway where
gun positions have sprung up in the past three weeks. The soldiers in bunkers are tense
and our identity cards are checked repeatedly, reminding us of the indemnity bond we had
to sign in Srinagar before leaving for the war zone.
"No movement till five in the evening," a major
tells us in Sonmarg. That means we wouldn't be able to reach Kargil because headlights
invite attacks by the infiltrators who are alarmingly close to the highway. Two hours
later, however, we are given clearance and told that we are proceeding "at your own
risk".
The war is intensifying. Choppers land in an open field where
ambulances are waiting with injured soldiers. "No pictures here," shouts an
officer as we make our way towards Kargil to discover that even the Brigade Headquarters
was shelled. It's not safe, not behind a three-ton army truck, as a shell lands just
behind our car. "They are not even sparing civilian vehicles," says an army
officer as he offers us a much-needed cup of tea. Only the army can give you tea and food.
The residents of Drass or Kargil have fled their homes. They don't know when this war will
be over. There are no signs of that yet.
The army knows that only too well. An officer in Kargil tells
us about a soldier who used his handkerchief to plug the bullet wound in his thigh. When
help came 36 hours later and he was shifted to hospital, only the tip of the hanky was
hanging out. Others were not so lucky. "Most of them died because they started eating
snow to avoid dehydration due to the wounds. But water is what you should avoid,"
says a doctor at the Army Hospital in Kargil. As we move on, a soldier fires that
oft-repeated warning: "Stop, don't proceed. You are in the shelling zone." |