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LIFESTYLE: CALCUTTA'S COLONIAL
CLUBS
Exit Pink Gin, Enter Paan BaharWith the city's corporate profile shrinking, its ex-British clubs
are less fussy about blackballing.
By Udayan
Namboodiri
Eighty years ago, the ladies of British Calcutta picketed the
wrought-iron gates of the Bengal Club to collect funds for the welfare of General Dyer --
notorious for the Jallianwala Bagh killings. For years after Independence, Indians were
not allowed in the pool of the Calcutta Swimming Club; it changed its constitution as late
as 1988 to allow more Indians into its committee. The 157-year-old Tollygunje Club was for
most of its life the week-end bastion of British managers in tea estates and jute mills,
and was run by an all-British governing committee.
Long after the Union Jack had come down, the half a dozen
colonial clubs of Calcutta struggled with falling revenues to hold aloft the banner of
exclusivity -- the only change being that the white sahibs were replaced by their brown
successors. However, the rapid contraction of Calcutta in the corporate map of India and
the consequent disappearance of high-spending members have now made these clubs look for
subsistence through means that are not quite classy. Such as dependence on the munificence
of tobacco and liquor companies, who have restrictions on advertising anyway, and throwing
open membership to the hoi polloi. The clubs that still resist change in outlook have
their bottom-lines under attack. Those open to change are becoming déclassé.
Tollygunje Club, the favourite of Calcutta's remaining
boxwallahs, now has the 213-year-old club house getting a Rs 14-lakh facelift -- courtesy
tobacco giant ITC. But Tolly is by far the most booming of the colonial cousins because of
a Rs 4 crore-compensation against land surrendered for the construction of the metro
railway in the '70s. That was well invested in an 80-room residence which makes its
economies vastly different from its sisters. But, across the city, some of Tolly's sisters
are gradually coming under the gloom of recession. "Margins are under squeeze, bottom
lines under pressure," says Khokon Mookerji, convener of the Forum of Club
Presidents.
Most clubs are finding tradition a bit too expensive to
maintain at the acceptable tariff-level, which is uniformly low. A four-course Chinese
dinner with a couple of rounds of good whiskey at the Calcutta Club works out to less than
Rs 500. Bar rates are ridiculous. At the Calcutta Cricket and Football Club (CCFC), the
oldest of the pack (started in 1792), a peg of Scotch is just Rs 80. "That comes
combined with personalised service and an ambience that's impossible at any good
restaurant," says sportscaster Kishore Bhimani, a luminary of the club. A month's
riding lessons at Tolly costs the member Rs 600 and a game of tennis just Rs 3.50 at the
Saturday Club. At the 170-year-old Royal Calcutta Golf Club, which recently hosted the
$300,000 (Rs 1.2 crore) Wills Open Golf, an 18-hole game can be played for less than Rs
50, caddie and all. The monthly subscription for the 107-year-old Calcutta Swimming Club
is as low as Rs 100.
"We avoid passing on costs to our members," says
Mike Robertson, Tolly's managing member. The hard truth is that Calcutta -- after the
closure of Dunlop, the attempted move-out of Shaw Wallace and the streamlining at Bata,
till recently a big spender on clubs -- is left without many corporates who could back
executives with fat expense accounts. Some clubs are becoming less choosy about membership
profile and source of donation and are giving a go-by to the traditional leisurely method
of collecting payments. At the Calcutta Swimming Club, old-timers find a sea change in the
present culture of members being charged cash and the membership rolls constantly
expanding. At the 123-year-old Saturday Club, there is now a Wills lounge and a Uniworth
club room fitted out with imported wood panels. The Bengal Club, still at the top of the
heap, has maintained its high profile by charging members cost plus rates on food and
drinks. But the trade-off lies in lowering the entry barrier to executives of faceless
companies. Old Bengal Club hands reminisce how executives below a certain rank were
invariably blackballed till a decade ago. Now, the threshold is flexible. Besides, there
is little check on the reputation of the employer company, or its position in the
corporate pecking order.
With the club committees constantly under pressure not to
raise fees or charges, the clubs tend to lose in the bargain either their financial
soundness or their character, the latter often being rooted in history. The Calcutta Club,
for example, was a rebuff by the Bengali elite to the no-Indians policy of the colonial
clubs. The club has retained its bhadralok (gentle folk) identity, discouraging the
arriviste crowd from becoming members and generally being patronised by second- or
third-generation Bengali entrepreneurs. But that's a vanishing tribe; besides,
circumstances have made the hereditary members stingier than their ancestors. The greying
members often spend an evening nursing a small pink gin. Dipak Datta, a finance
professional who now heads the club committee, wonders how long the club can provide
"new-world services" at "old-world prices". With rising expectations
of members (air conditioners in place of ceiling fans), and stagnant revenues, most clubs
are rushing to industrialist-patrons at the year-end with deficits to close, or to clamour
for direct corporate sponsorship.
The clubs still attract a sizeable chunk of the basket of
corporates' brand-promotion spends. Says Dickoo Nowroji, marketing manager, ITC, "We
support the clubs partly out of a social responsibility, but we are also sure of maximum
mileage as we get the elite crowd in one place." But there is a limit to corporate
funding in a city that has failed to attract new businesses and an inflow of high-rolling
executives. The way out of the time warp is to live down the uppity past, and to let in
the parvenu and the fragrance of Paan Bahar.
EMPIRE'S CLUBS |
BENGAL CLUB:
Started in 1827. Members: 2,000. Monthly cover: Rs 350. Finance: moderate. Image:
downward.
TOLLYGUNJE CLUB: 1841. Members: 3,500. Monthly cover:
Rs 200. Finance: sound. Image: upward.
SATURDAY CLUB: 1875. Monthly cover: Rs 150. Finance:
sound. Image: downward.
CALCUTTA CLUB: 1907. Members: 3,000. Monthly cover: Rs
200. Finance: worrisome. Image: dwindling.
CALCUTTA CRICKET & FOOTBALL CLUB: 1792. Members:
3,500. Monthly cover: Rs 150. Finance: moderate. Image: poor.
CALCUTTA SWIMMING CLUB: 1891. Members: 3,000. Monthly
cover: Rs 100. Improved finance at the cost of image.
ROYAL CALCUTTA GOLF CLUB: 1829. Members: 3,500.
Monthly cover: Rs 250. Finance: stagnant. Image: good. |
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