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OFFTRACK: PATNA, BIHAR
Hidden
Treasure
The
little-known Qila House is a repository of historical articles
By Shuchi Sinha
Deep in the grimy
heart of old Patna lies a home that leaves you with a sense of frozen
time. Nestled on the ramparts of what was once Sher Shah Suri's fort (which
the Muslim ruler built on his return from an expedition to Bengal in 1541)
lies the Qila House. The Ganga flows eternally by it and the graceful,
if rather worn columns of the Qila House stand like impassive sentinels
guarding the entrance to the past.
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TIME TRAPPER: Satya Bhama Jalan amid the opulence
of period furniture and artefacts
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It was perhaps as much for the historical significance
of the house as for the fact he collected antiques that the late Diwan
Bahadur Radhakrishna Jalan bought Qila House in 1919 from a nawab who
had fallen on bad days. The Diwan Bahadur is long gone, but his family,
the Jalans, have put in effort and passion-even at times of great financial
difficulty-into maintaining the priceless collection of artefacts collected
over 60 years by the patriarch.
The Jalans, a business family, shun publicity
and the collection is not open to the general public. But those who are
interested in taking a look are never turned away. The Diwan Bahadur's
great-grandson personally takes you around, often with old-fashioned hospitality
and a pure silver coffee service at the end of the tour.
The collection is a reflection of elegant, if
not royal, living in a bygone era. There's King George III's Crown Derby
dinner service, specially commissioned in uncharacteristically bright
shades of blue, red and gold as he was losing his eyesight. A bed that
Napoleon III (nephew of Napoleon Bonaparte and his successor) once owned
stands next to a collection of swords. There are two there that conquered
India: Humayun's (with a jade hilt) and Akbar's. Ming and Ching dynasty
chinaware sit cheek by jowl with ancient Tibetan and Indian scriptures.
A Peruvian bull pendant dating back to 800 B.C. finds pride of place in
a room appointed with Louis XV and Louis XVI furniture. Equally fascinating
are the Celadon plates commissioned by Mughal kings which could detect
arsenic in food (one of the plates is cracked, a sign that poisoned food
was served in it).
Unlike museums with their orderliness and funereal
atmosphere, Qila House is a lively place. As it should be too, for as
a Jalan family member quips, "It is our drawing room, not a museum."
So as you walk along you can't but notice the absence of chronology and
geography in the way the objects are displayed-a Marie Antoinette wine
cooler and plates between Thai sculptures, Dresden china next to Mughal
glassware, Tipu Sultan's palanquin beside a Henry VIII dresser.
With such legends under its roof, Qila House
was bound to generate a few of its own. There is a particularly delightful
one that involves a silver dinner service believed to belong to Birbal.
On his visit to Patna in 1952, Jawaharlal Nehru was served food in the
Birbal set. The impulsive prime minister was angered by what he thought
was a show of wealth. He was somewhat mollified when the host said that
it was a symbolic gesture since Birbal had been Akbar's prime minister
but demanded to know how they were sure the plates were genuine. His doubts
subsided when he was told that all the articles had been authenticated
by the Archaeological Survey of India. There's a post-script. Forgetting
in his enthusiam that most things around him were priceless artefacts,
Nehru climbed on an antique chair to look at an old clock. The chair broke
and sent him tumbling to the floor. The broken chair today has a place
of pride in the collection.
History and archeology buffs who visit the house,
especially after it was mentioned in a Lonely Planet guidebook, don't
realise how close the collection came to ruin. Grand dame Satya Bhama
Jalan sold her jewellery to help the Diwan Bahadur, her father-in-law,
save the items from being auctioned off in a moment of financial distress.
On his death, rightfully, he willed it to her. Says the matriarch: "This
is the work of a man whose appreciation of history was so far ahead of
his times that he was often misunderstood. It is our duty is to preserve
it with the same single-minded devotion." It is a sense of devotion
that, like the artefacts, is rare in a cynical world.
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