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SOCIETY AND TRENDS: FASHION
DESIGNERS
DESIS FOR HIRE
Borrowed Feathers
Indian designers do small-time work for global
brands. Not all like revelling in reflected glory.
They are Indian
fashion's guns for hire. Versace, Carmen Marc Volvo and global image management
consultancies are eager to hire their sewing machines. Reputed and lesser
known, these are the Indian designers who undertake design and embroidery
work for some of the most enviable international labels.
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| UNSUNG HERO: Being in the company of the
best minds is a good deal for Varma |
While not having their own labels is something
of a deterrent for designers like Delhi's Tarun Tahiliani, Raghavendra
Rathore and Mumbai's Krishna Mehta and Rocky S ("No way, do you take
me for a job worker or a contractor?"), there are others who don't
mind revelling in reflected glory. Delhi-based Suneet Varma, Jatin Kochchar
and Ranna Gill find working with highly professional international names
an irreplaceable learning experience. The pay packets are satisfying too.
The steady stream of global agencies into India
is guided by good economics and talent. Research and development in India
is a lot cheaper than in Europe or the US, and India is still the only
country that takes on small productions as compared to a price competitive
country like China. Also in demand are hand beading and traditional Indian
designs like tie-and-dye, Bengal's kantha embroidery, Uttar Pradesh's
chikan work and Jaipur's vegetable dyes.
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JATIN KOCHCHAR
Finds working with renowned professionals an irreplaceable learning
experience. |
Varma-30 per cent of his business comes from
global exports-claims to have designed it all, from beaded shoes to handbags
to bridal gowns, for labels like Donna Karan and Carolina Herrera. "You
get to debate with the best minds and work six months ahead of the season.
So when I design my own collections for the domestic market I have an
edge over others as to what's happening in the international market,"
he says.
For
designer Ranna Gill, 28, who exports her own label to London, Hong Kong,
Singapore and New York, production for bigger labels is a purely business
venture. Kolkata-based Lalit and Sunita Jalan have worked on Japanese
designer Kenzo's personal wardrobe. The buzz, meanwhile, is that 29-year-old
Jatin Kochchar's first assignment for a celebrity image management consultancy
in London was designing a black cocktail sari for no less than singer
Jennifer Lopez.
Such details are only the tip of the iceberg,
with several big designers unwilling to spill the beans. What's not a
secret is the increasing number of Indian designers continuing to hitch
on to the global brandwagon.
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