WHIFF OF PARADISE: A view of the Gurez Valley

Dal Lake, Pahalgam, Gulmarg ... the average tourist perception of Kashmir is usually limited to standard destinations. The place that many haven't heard of and fewer still have travelled to is Gurez, a rugged and beautiful valley at an altitude of 8,000 ft, some 200 km from Srinagar. Mountain peaks tower on either side of Gurez valley which is much narrower than the Kashmir Valley. Gurez's most formidable peak is Habba Khatoon around which quaint legends abound and at one time, even a film starring Dimple Kapadia was planned. A single narrow road, open only for a few months in the year, links it with the outside world. It is precisely this isolation that has been a boon of sorts-protecting the culture of the Dard Shin people that reside here and their language, Shina.

Diaspora: Travel

GETTING THERE SEASON: Summer. Gurez is open to tourists only between June and the first snowfall. MODE OF TRANSPORT: Accessible only by road. The best option is to drive down from Srinagar—a six-hour drive. ACCOMMODATION: State guest houses.

Beauty apart, Gurez is also historically important. At one time, it fell along a section of the ancient Silk Route that connected the Kashmir Valley with Gilgit. The ruins of the ancient Sharada University are preserved along the Kishenganga river that flows through Gurez. Though terrorism hasn't marred this valley as it has the Kashmir Valley, it faces a different threat: the proposed Gurez Dam will inundate a large chunk of the valley and wipe out key archaeological and cultural treasures. In addition, the forced eviction of the Dard Shin to urban settings might place their culture in jeopardy. Pity that Gurez might change significantly even before travel connoisseurs get a chance to savour its uniqueness.

HOT DEALS
Desert Festival

Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, February 25-27: Go for a camel ride. Watch a camel race. Participate in a moustache contest. Get close to sword swallowers and fire eaters. Pitch your tent in the desert. Shoot the Sonar Kila. Experience the royal heritage of the fabric of the desert and its music. Organised by the Department of Tourism, Art & Culture, Rajasthan. Accommodation is available at Moomal and Sam Dhani at Jaisalmer. Moomal, categorised as an "elite" property has suites (Rs1,900 a night). Sam Dhani, a "classic" property, has suites (Rs 1,300 per night). Dorms at both places (Rs 50 per night). Contact (0141) 410591-98. Visit rajasthantourism-india.com.

Tourism

Eco Tourism: Indian tourism authorities have finally opened up to more offbeat forms of tourism like eco-tourism-an ecologically sustainable tourism that protects and preserves the environment while educating visitors. The Forest Department of Maharashtra-the first state to adopt the concept-has begun identifying eco-tourist spots within forests and is planning to conduct tours ranging from a day to a week, including eco-treks.

Kalpa (above); the Baya River flows through Sangla

Off the Beaten Track

Kalpa & Sangla in Kinnaur district, Himachal Pradesh: Venture beyond the deodars of Shimla the next time you are in Himachal Pradesh and travel into Kinnaur district. Kalpa, one of the biggest villages in this district, is about eight hours from Shimla by road and is accessible both by public bus (Rs 800 approximately) and private transport (Rs 4,000). A number of reasonably priced and clean small hotels as well as guest houses are available, some of which offer a great view of the magnificent Kinner Kailash range. You could reserve a day or two for trekking one of the peaks in this range. Located on the banks of the river Sutlej, a must do here is a walk in the apple orchards. If you reach as far as Kalpa, don't let go of the opportunity to visit Sangla, about a two-hour drive from Kalpa. The thick pine forests here across the gurgling Baya river were included in a reserve area till recently but are now open for exploration. So make the most of it.